sustainability

Hēdonē: An Ethical Touch to the Fashion World

Hedone by Emiliano Vittoriosi, Berlin, 2023

Could you explain what Hēdonē is and what it aims to achieve?

Hēdonē is a fashion brand that aims to make people aware of the value of handmade clothes, of quality and ethical production.

What inspired you to launch your own fashion brand, and how did you come to choose the name “Hēdonē”?

I have worked in the fashion and related industries long enough to witness the high level of exploitation. Over time, this took a toll on me, and during the COVID-19 pandemic, I burned out under the pressure. I decided to break away from this culture and realized that I need to make it myself. Here I am, trying to create an honest brand while being true to myself and fighting for fair work conditions in fashion.

During my search for the name, I had an inner journey to look for the things, ideas that are closest to me, the things that really matter and keep me going. The result of that journey was Hēdonē. I love that she is a female goddess. The goddess of pleasure. Born of the union of Eros and Psyche -the earthly love and the Soul. The same union I strive for in my work.

My biggest aim in life is happiness. And to find pleasure in the things you do is key to finding happiness. So, for me, Hēdonē stands for that.

As far as I understand from your words, Hēdonē is not just a new fashion brand but also a response to the social and political consequences of the industry. Could you elaborate on this perspective?

Yes, that’s true. The fast-fashion industry has stripped clothing of its charm and value in people’s eyes. Fast fashion has fueled a culture of overconsumption, leading to massive waste with a huge ecological impact on our world. On the consumer side, perfectly good garments are thrown away just to make room for the next trend. On the production side, vast amounts of clothing are thrown away too—either to maintain pricing strategies or due to overproduction.

How does your brand promote sustainable practices and ensure an exploitation-free approach to fashion production?

There are several steps that promote sustainable practices in my brand. First, I use 90% dead-stock fabrics, which means that I use fabrics that have already been produced but are left over in small quantities. For most companies, this wouldn’t be profitable and they would rather throw this part away than make use of it. So, I give them a new life instead of letting them go to waste.

Second, I only produce on demand. This way, I prevent overproduction, nor will I use my limited amounts of fabrics for items that might never sell. At the same time, I offer personalized and flexible service, as in I can make the ordered garment in the perfect size for my customer and adjust things according to their wishes. Last but not least, I make every piece myself, this way I can ensure not to exploit anyone along the way, plus I guarantee the best quality and ensure it is made to last. Sustainability also means quality for me. The longer I (can) use a product, the less new things I need to buy. Also, if a product is made to last, it will most likely also be possible to repair if things break on a long journey.

Hedone by Emiliano Vittoriosi, Berlin, 2023

What does a typical day in your atelier look like, and how does it shape your creative process?

I would say there is no such thing as a typical day in my atelier. 😉 I plan my days with a list of tasks and adjust based on ongoing projects. This way I can be flexible in my planning and shift things around if needed. But a most enjoyable day in my atelier would mean that I am working on something with my hands. Whether it is an order that I am working on or new designs I am developing or just preparing for one of my markets.

Interestingly, the more boring the task at hand is, the stronger my urge to dive into something creative—a new design, a new collaboration or something similar. So, I try to get through my ‘must-dos’ so I can focus on my ‘want-to-dos’.

What obstacles have you encountered while pursuing an alternative vision to mainstream fashion, and what advice would you offer to others with similar dreams and aspirations?

It is a very long journey. And no matter how much you know this when you start, it is still very hard to go through it. The biggest challenge is to reach new customers who not only love your designs but are also willing to pay the price. And I believe it is not about being able to afford it. It is about understanding the value of the product. Many people are accustomed to cheaply produced, mass-manufactured clothing made thousands of kilometers away, and shifting that perception takes time. I would tell you to do it anyways. Because if I didn’t believe it was possible to educate people on how terrible the industry is and that there is an alternative, I would have given up already.

Where can our readers find your products and learn more about your work?

They can find me on Instagram: @hedone_berlin and my products are on my website: www.hedoneberlin.com. People can come and find me at my next market in Berlin (all updates on IG) or send me DM & e-mail to visit me in my atelier in Kreuzberg, Berlin. I also work on different projects in styling, stage design, and costume design, collaborating with musicians and stage artists for music videos, live performances, as well as movie productions. I try to keep an updated web and social media presence about my brand and my projects, so they can make sure to follow me on Instagram!

Hēdonē
@hedone_berlin

Interviewee: Dorothea Tomsits (the founder of Hēdonē)
Interviewer: Tevfik Hürkan Urhan

Buy Me A Coffee



Permaculture: a Pathway to a Sustainable Future

Permaculture is a word we’ve heard a lot lately. How would you describe permaculture to someone who is just starting to get interested in this topic?

According to the most general definition I heard from my dear teacher Murat Onuk, I can say “ethics-based, sustainable human settlements design science”.

When and for what purpose did your interest in permaculture begin? What was the reaction of your close social circle?

I don’t think I have a clear answer to the question of when my interest in permaculture had started. I can find some traces of permaculture in my earliest memory of my life. If you ask when I heard that there was such a thing as permaculture and when I said “oh, this is it!”, I would say 2016 is the year. In this period, my perspective and the way I relate to my dreams started to radically transform thanks to my dear friends who came into my life. Of course, in retrospect, I realize that this is very blissful. I think that an anger had accumulated inside me against the life I live in, the world, the system we live in. I was in a period in which I sensed that there was something wrong and I was not satisfied with my lifestyle. I had deep concerns about the world, about being alive. As I walked on streets, I used to think that everyone was crazy and how they lived in the city without oxygen and water. However, I had little idea about what to do or what kind of world I wanted to live in or maybe I had no energy to think on this. At such a stage of my life, I met my dear friends and learned about the existence of permaculture from them. I saw “Zone 0” as myself and dreamed of a spacious, happy, and central life.

Apart from my personal transformation, I was faced with a serious problem of the climate crisis that transformed all parts of the world. It is a very shortcut to get stuck and despairing about this issue, and at that time I was closer to such a point. Alternatively, there is a reality in which there are colorful and endless possibilities. Permaculture can be water in the desert at this point.

Bill Mollison, one of the founders of permaculture, has a sentence that I love very much: “Though the problems of the world are increasingly complex, the solutions remain embarrassingly simple.”

What is this “Zone 0”?

We do “zone analysis” in order to use energy efficiently in design. We can think of zones as intertwined circles. Zone 0 means the regions we are in mostly and where daily work is the most intense. Like our home. According to our scaling, the last circle, zone 5, is mother nature itself or our universe that is determined as the area in which we develop, live and explore. So, it is a journey from zone 0 to zone 5.

A great start! So, what are the principles and practical areas of permaculture? Could you briefly mention?

Permaculture is based on the life ethic of respecting and caring for everything, living and non-living, just because they exist. There are three basic principles of permaculture on this;

“care for the world”, “care for people”, “employ the leftover”

Permaculture has a claim “We can provide the entire food stock needed by all people in the world by using only 4% of the cultivated areas we currently use, and leave the remaining 96% to forestry and nature to repair itself.” In order for this to be actualized, we need to establish the right relationships. Permaculture also explores how this will happen. We learn this from the nature, which includes everything in it, as we learn all the life itself. Permaculture design is based on patterning. Recently, I am in a process where I am intensely trying to grasp the patterns where I am looking into.

When you say what are the practical areas of permaculture, I want to say everywhere and every moment, but  with the concern that it may be very abstract and incomprehensible, I would like to draw attention to David Holmgren’s “Permaculture Flower”. Each component in the flower can be functionalized in practice entirely depending on our creativity and how we want to live within the concept.

Permaculture Flower is adapted from Jonathan Woolson’s drawing, modified from David Holmgren. Each petal shows a basic human need.

What does permaculture mean to you in city life? How do we make this concept a part of our daily life?

I think “zone 0” is yourself, permaculture starts to settle in every area of ​​your life. A serious waste is generated in the cities we live in, at the same time, these wastes have the potential to turn into considerable resources. For this reason, I dream of being able to act together with institutions and municipalities and transform city life from within. Ankara Development Agency’s (Ankara Kalkınma Ajansı) studies and projects on this subject continue. In recent months, we attended the “Introduction to Permaculture Training” presented by Taner Aksel with Sevecen. We talked about “what can be done to improve our cities” and talked about the support we can offer. The development and proliferation of permaculture works fill me with hope.

I believe that it is very valuable to live in cities with as little waste as possible, recycled and upcycled. There are compost applications that can be done easily in apartments. In this way, it is possible to turn food waste into humus soil, so you have a wonderful soil and you feel good. Some kind of a way of connecting to the planet, I think. Apart from that, there are very good organizations. Getting together and collaborating with people is both easy and important in cities. It opens up a space where you can be a derivativer instead of a consumer. In food purchases, it can be bought directly from the producers as much as possible. When you change your food preferences, you can really feel the bodily change directly. In fact, there are so many methods of this practice when you decide to care for everything, living and non-living, you find yourself in endless options with creativity stripped of all theories.

Based on your theoretical and practical background related to the subject, what are you doing and what do you plan to do in the future?

We make “bokashi compost” at home and consume as little packaged food as possible. We strive to transform our shopping preferences in ways that I believe more connected to social networks and healthier. We make washing machine detergent and cleaning vinegar. I use vinegar, baking soda and sometimes soft soap for cleaning. I think the perfect trio is the solution for everything. I have learned it is possible to make soft soap at home from waste oils. We will try it soon. I use soap in the bathroom and vinegar as hair conditioner is great. İlkin and Sevecen care about me in terms of cream and fragrance because they make perfumes and creams. I use EcoFont Vera Sans when printing even in the office and I use less ink. These are the first things I can remember.

Nowadays, the desire to do a permaculture internship is very vivid for me, I want to come together with the people who spend effort for this and may increase my knowledge. Essen has some projects carried out for years in Izmir. They are trying to create a permaculture garden on their land in Foça. I want to create some time and help them because they have a lot of practical experience that I can learn from.

On the other hand, we intend to create a permaculture-based garden in the front garden of Hamleci Mansion. In the recent past, we have started to take concrete steps regarding our ideas. Our soil analysis has arrived and we will soon have the well water analyzed. Our ideas, sprouting over the years, are beginning to deepen their roots. I am at peace.

What have you learned from your mistakes until today? What are your recommendations for the beginners?

I suffered from my tendency to be pessimistic and looking from a limited perspective. I learned how valuable it is to be hopeful and to be aware that the problem contains the solution. I understood the importance of taking care of each other and saw what we can achieve in cooperation.

There are very nice tutorials, videos, resources and they are increasing day by day. In fact, everything starts with increasing individual and environmental awareness as well as connecting with each other and with ourselves. Thus, our way of handling of the world becomes fun, constructive and sustainable.

Ayşe Yayla

Interviewer: İlkin Taşdelen

Translation from Turkish: Tevfik Hürkan Urhan